Serving the Treasure Valley Since 1960
All Off-Grid Services
Off-Grid Specialty

Cisterns & Hauled-Water Systems

Cistern installs, gravity-fed feeds, fill ports, and the pumps that move water from storage into your home.

About this service

Plenty of back-country properties run on hauled or rain-fed water. We install and service cistern setups end-to-end — fill ports, tank vents, transfer pumps, and the pressure side that makes the inside of the cabin behave like a normal house.

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Signs it's time to call

  • Tank cracking, leaking, or freezing in the winter.
  • Transfer pump won't prime or burns out.
  • Inconsistent pressure inside the cabin.
  • Algae, sediment, or off-tastes in the stored water.
  • Fill port is awkward, exposed, or has a failing check valve.
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How we approach it

  • Spec and install cisterns sized to your usage and re-fill cadence.
  • Insulate, bury, or heat-trace tanks where freezing is a risk.
  • Install proper transfer pumps, accumulator tanks, and filtration.
  • Set up clean, accessible fill ports with backflow protection.

Common Questions

How big a cistern do I need?

Depends on usage and refill cadence. A weekend cabin for two might be fine with 1,500–2,500 gallons. A full-time household easily uses 3,000–5,000. We size to actual draw, not a guess.

Should the cistern be buried or above ground?

Buried tanks stay cool, freeze-proof, and out of the way. Above-ground is cheaper to install and easier to inspect but needs insulation and heat in winter. The site usually dictates the answer.

How do I keep the cistern from freezing?

Bury it below frost depth, insulate the lid and any exposed plumbing, and heat-trace the transfer line into the cabin. Above-ground tanks need an insulated enclosure with a low-watt heat source.

Why won't my transfer pump prime?

Usually a leak on the suction side (cracked foot valve, loose fitting, or a worn pump seal). A failing check valve will also let prime drop overnight. We pressure-test and rebuild or replace.

How do I keep the water in the tank clean?

Tight, vented, screened lid; a filtered fill port; first-flush diverter if you're catching rain; and periodic shock chlorination. We can set that up as part of the install.

Can I drink water from a cistern?

Yes, with proper filtration (sediment + carbon at minimum) and a UV light or chlorination for biological safety. If you're hauling potable water, a UV is usually enough. We design potable-rated systems.

How does the fill port work?

A water hauler connects to a standard cam-lock or threaded fitting and pumps water in. We install fill ports that are accessible from the driveway, screened, and have backflow protection so nothing from outside can siphon back.

What's an accumulator tank and do I need one?

An accumulator (small pressure tank on the cabin side of the pump) keeps water pressure smooth and lets the transfer pump cycle less often. Strongly recommended on any cistern system — the pump lasts longer and the pressure feels normal.

Can I collect rain into a cistern?

Yes, with proper screens, first-flush diverters, and filtration. Rainwater works well for irrigation and toilets and can be made potable with the right treatment. Local rules vary — we'll check before designing.

How often does a cistern need cleaning?

Inspect annually and clean every 3–5 years depending on use and water source. We can drain, scrub, and sanitize the tank as part of a seasonal service.

Need Cisterns & Hauled-Water Systems at your cabin?

Tell us where the property is and what's going on. We'll plan the trip and bring the right parts.