Well Pumps & Pressure Tanks
Submersible and jet pump service, pressure tank swaps, and the supply line from your well head to the cabin.
About this service
A well pump that quits at a remote cabin isn't a minor inconvenience — it's no water until someone gets up there with the right gear. We service submersible and shallow-well jet pumps, pull and reset pumps, swap pressure tanks, and chase down pressure-switch and wiring issues.
Signs it's time to call
- Sputtering faucets or air in the lines.
- Pump cycles on and off rapidly (short-cycling).
- No water at all, or pressure that won't hold.
- Visible leaks at the pressure tank, switch, or pitless adapter.
- Sand or sediment showing up in the water.
How we approach it
- Test pressure, draw-down, and amperage before pulling the pump.
- Pull, inspect, and replace submersibles when the pump is the issue — not just guess.
- Replace pressure tanks, switches, and gauges with quality parts.
- Reseal pitless adapters and the well cap to keep the well sanitary.
Common Questions
How long does a well pump last?
A quality submersible typically runs 10–15 years, sometimes more with clean water and steady cycling. Sand, frequent short-cycling, or running dry shortens that significantly.
Why is my pump short-cycling?
Most often a waterlogged pressure tank that's lost its air charge. Could also be a stuck pressure switch, a leak on the supply side, or a failing check valve. We test before we replace anything.
What does it cost to pull and replace a submersible pump?
It depends on well depth, pump size, and whether the drop pipe and wire need to come with it. We test first to confirm it's actually the pump — pulling a good pump because the switch failed is an expensive mistake.
How deep is my well likely to be?
In our back-country service area, well depths range from 80 feet to over 400. Your well log (filed with IDWR) tells you exactly. If you don't have it, we can usually find it by address before we come out.
Why is there air or sputtering at my faucets?
Air in the lines usually means the pump is drawing down to the suction point and breaking prime, the pressure tank has lost its air charge, or there's a leak on the suction side of a jet pump. Each has a different fix.
Should I add a sediment filter at the well?
If you're seeing sand or fine grit, yes — and it'll protect every fixture and appliance downstream. We install whole-house sediment filtration sized to the well's flow.
Can a well pump freeze?
The pump itself is below the frost line, but the pitless adapter, well-head wiring, and the run from the well to the cabin can absolutely freeze. We bury supply lines to local frost depth and seal the well cap properly.
What size pressure tank do I need?
Bigger is usually better — a larger tank means longer run cycles and a longer pump life. For most cabins a 32–44 gallon tank is the sweet spot. We'll size to the pump's flow and your usage.
Why does my pressure swing wildly between fixtures?
Usually a waterlogged pressure tank or a misadjusted pressure switch (cut-in and cut-out set too close). Sometimes a partially clogged pressure gauge or check valve. We rebuild the assembly so it holds steady.
Can I test my well water?
Yes — and you should, especially after any pump or well work. We can pull samples and coordinate with a certified lab. Basic potability tests are inexpensive and worth doing every few years.
Need Well Pumps & Pressure Tanks at your cabin?
Tell us where the property is and what's going on. We'll plan the trip and bring the right parts.